This anvil also has a piece of inner tube between the anvil and the steel plate and it is just as quiet as the wood mount. Two pieces of angle iron go over the base ends of the anvil and are bolted to the top plate. I have a couple hardy racks welded to the side and a shelf welded between the flanges to the web. The base is a piece of 12" I-beam on end of the proper height with a rectangular base of 1/2" steel plate which is slightly larger that the I-beam and a top which is also plate but the size of the I-beam. The second anvil is a 165# Kohlswa mounted on a steel base that I built. This anvil is securely bolted to the wood with a piece of truck tire inner tube between the anvil and the wood. I have two anvils in my shop, a 250# Kohlswa mounted on an 8 foot piece of 12" x 16" rock maple set 6' into the ground. If you buy crushed sand it'll pack like concrete without bonding and your anvil isn't going anywhere unless you make it. as the grains are rounded so it's like using a bag of marbles to mound something on. This is really only a problem if you use alluvial sand from a beach, creak, etc. The one down check you see for sandbox stands is the need to adjust them regularly as the sand shifts. They're quiet, the quietest I've encountered, sand doesn't resonate for beans unless you're an earthquake. you can move it pretty easily by dumping the sand. First it's really easy to adjust the height by adjusting the sand under it. I have used an anvil mounted on a sandbox and highly recommend this type stand for a number of reasons. The wood block damps the Sodorfors, HC steel face on a cast steel body but it takes almost a second, the wood itself doesn't damp the vibrations, the tight mortice does. The anvil is loud but quiets almost immediately. The steel stand has a different resonant frequency so they damp each other in a couple resonant bounces. The Trenton is on the steel stand and is far quieter than it was on wood. It is however a real ear buster but it IS a Sodorfors. The Sodorfors is morticed into the spruce block when it was green so the anvil is shrink fit and doesn't move. Anywho, I have one anvil mounted on a spruce block and the other on a steel tripod stand. Take the bark off to keep the bug and fungus problem down, or you will have to add wildlife ID to your skills list.īuilt up bases of 2 bys or larger work if you use lots of construction adhesive/lag screws/all-thread to secure it together.Īndy: As usual, ask two blacksmiths a question and you'll get 3-4 answers, let alone a fora with a few thousand members. If the base is slightly cupped so that it rests on the rim, so much the better. Just make sure the top and bottom cuts are parallel. Unless your stump is rotten like balsa, a whole chunk of any species green tree trunk ought to be plenty sturdy. Just remember at demos that there may be underground utilities or lawn sprinkler systems. Foot plates with holes to spike it to the earth, or use concrete anchors, are a bonus. Just make sure that you tie the legs together just above ground level with a 'Y' or 'H' brace to prevent hopping when you pound on it. If it weighs 2X more than the anvil, so much the better. You want the heaviest, thickest angle, pipe or plate you can lay hands on. Save the bedrail and thin pipe for tong stands. IMNSHO, the rigidity of the stand is more important than the material.
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